Quesadillas sizzling on street corners outside cosy coffee shops; mariachi in sequined sombreros serenading late-night revellers; tower blocks casting long shadows over baroque churches and Aztec ruins studded with cacti. Mexico City simultaneously conforms to every stereotype and challenges every preconception with shameless self-assurance. We push past the colourful chaos and Frida Kahlo merchandise (although, naturally, we drop by her cobalt-blue home) to find the city’s tastiest tacos and the retailers breathing new life into classic crafts. We lead you to our favourite mural-splashed buildings and the best places in which to practise your salsa – ending up in a dimly lit mezcal bar or two for good measure. There’s never been a better time to visit the Mexican capital so dust off your dancing shoes and join the fiesta. Órale, amigos!